When I want to cut a case to use for a dipper, I weigh the charge and dump it into the case. 22 short case, just cut a long rifle case. After a little practice, you can trickle a tiny granule at a time or more as needed.Īs for as it being difficult to find a. If you don't have a powder trickler, use a teaspoon and gently shake into your weighing pan. Hate to think about but it has been nearly 40 years since I hand loaded the 32's. Most likely just lost interest or gave up in frustration. I started a project of filling a tiny Lee spoon with epoxy but never finished for a reason I can't recall. The scale's arm wouldn't move at all until the desired charge was way over. At the time I had two scales, a Redding and a Pacific. I can recall the frustration as the light charge more often than not by the time my scale's arm lifted the pointer was over center. For the extremely light charges have to make sure there are not any breezes, be it an open window, fan, A/C etc affecting the movement of your scale. It was chambered for the 32 Long so I wasn't to concerned if I loaded the Short brass a bit to much. The 32's I didn't shoot in my Nagant I shot in a F&W revolver, not a typo a "F". I think it was from a member of my gun collector's club that also sold me the partial can of Norma and some 32 store-bought cast bullets. Can't recall for sure where I got the loading data. I can't say with 100% certainty but I think I was using Unique and also used a Norma brand powder. I'd trickle it up rubbing my thumb and finger dropping the flakes that stick then use the powder trickler. If I dropped to much into the pan, dump it start over, under I'd trickle it up. I would drop a pinch, a pinch being powder from a bowl pinched between my thumb and index finger.
It was a bit slow and tedious getting the powder charge right. Loading for it won't be a problem, I have what I need except for some way to throw those tiny charges.Been a long time, more years than I want to think about. Looks like it'll be a fun little toy when I get to it. Looking at it, it may not be as old as I thought either as it has some kind of transfer bar in it, the hammer won't push the firing pin where it would hit the primer unless the trigger is pulled all the way back.įor the price, I'm not out much, but I don't want to blow it up. What kind of loads would work in this OK? I'm guessing about 1.5 grain of Bullseye? I understand top breaks are inherently weaker, but this one is as strong as it ever was I'm sure. 32 short brass stashed away someplace in all my stuff and also a mold for a light bullet designed for the. Happenned on a pretty nice blued one today with no pitting, good grips and bore for $75. Usually shops want upwards of $200 for ones that have broken grips, pitting, nickel plating peeling etc. 32s and have been eyeballing these when they turn up. I must admit to having a thing for top break revolvers and never had one.
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